Elephant seals and
Californian memories
On Tuesday morning we leave Dragonfly Cottage and the Vaca del Sol in the Santa Cruz mountains. We say our goodbyes to Martin and Mary-Jane. Martin, who Jane decides is a gentle American – so I shall call him GA – tells us that a trailer truck has overturned on route 17 and that the road will be blocked. GA, by the way, doesn’t need Clint Eastwood to play him. He speaks for himself and does all his own stunts.
Again we miss Jolene as we thread our way through country roads that never seem to lead anywhere. Having at first decided not to take the Highway 1 coast road back to San Francisco, we change our minds and are soon careering under a clear sky alongside an iridescent blue Pacific fringed with sparkling-white beaches. We stop at the Ano Nuevo state park, a wildlife reserve on the dunes where a four-mile walk takes us to where elephant seals are lazing on the sand like heaps of steaming tarmac.
Later we drop from a mountain ridge to the airport where we deposit a dusty Elefanta.
We take the Bart train to the Mission area and from then a bus to the Million Fishes. R cooks us a last dinner, a curry with pinto beans, we survey the photos we have taken, we kiss D goodbye and clamber into the Bald Eagle for the journey to our Holiday Express airport hotel. Our bags are packed, the holiday is over, we dry our tears.
The smells and sights of the Mission district blend into other places we have visited, the poetry of the streets is behind us, Mary-Jane of the Santa Cruz hills glows in my mind like a hologram for a while and I wish we had got to know her better. We are now ticketed tourists prepackaged for a return to Heathrow.
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